Category: Blog
From Troy to Totnes – The Tale of the Brutus Stone
Brutus in Britain
According to the legend of the Brutus Stone the origins of Totnes stretch all the way back to ancient Troy. After accidentally killing his father Brutus set off to Greece with his army of followers, where he defeated the king Pendrasu. The king gave Brutus his daughter to marry, and 324 well-stocked ships, at least one of which ended up on the River Dart. Following the advice of the oracle Diana, who suggested the Trojans should travel to an island in the Western Seas that was possessed by Giants, Brutus set sail for Great Britain – at the time called Albion. It was on the Brutus stone that he made his proclamation after landing on Britain's shores, undeterred by the giants and attracted to Totnes by its location and fish-filled rivers. Not only was Totnes named by Brutus, but it's said he named Britain after himself.Ice Age to New Age
The Brutus legend is recorded in several ancient books, though there's little evidence to suggest any of it is true. The stone itself probably settled in its location during the great Ice Age, and may have been called several things which sounded similar to 'Brutus'. More recently, when Fore Street was widened in 1810, the stone was reduced in height from 18 inches above ground to the level of the pavement. Whether or not Brutus stood on the stone it's a town custom that royal proclamations should be read there by the mayor. No matter how true they are, the legends surrounding Brutus and the stone persist and are enjoyed to this day. Visitors to Totnes can see the stone in the pavement on their right-hand side when walking up Fore Street next to number 51.Be an eco-tourist
Be an eco-tourist - by Blueriver Cottages
At Blueriver Cottages, we strive to make the right choices for environmental sustainability. In this blog, we offer a few suggestions so that our guests and other visitors to this beautiful area can help us to protect the local environment, wildlife and economy for all to enjoy!
How to go green
CONSERVE ENERGY
At your cottage, reduce energy by switching off lights and closing windows if heating is on. Please visit energysavingtrust.org.uk for more information on what you can do to save energy at home and when on holiday.
SUPPORT THE REAL LOCAL ECONOMY
Locally made crafts and souvenirs are not always cheaper, but purchasing them ensures your contribution to the economy will have a more direct and positive impact.
CLEANER JOURNEYS
Some destinations are just harder to reach, so consider renting a hybrid or hybrid vehicle. Walk, bike, or use public transportation to get around whenever possible.
SAY NO TO PLASTIC
Take a BPA-free water bottle you can refill over and over again at many eateries. Refuse plastic straws.
BEACH CLEANS
There are monthly beach cleans to take part in but you don’t have to wait for those - spend 10 minutes before you leave the beach to do your bit.
EAT LOCALLY SOURCED FOOD
Support the region’s farmers, get a more authentic taste of the cuisine and cut your carbon footprint even more.
TAKE AN EDUCATIONAL WALK
Totnes is the world’s first Transition Town. Take part in one of their walks to find more out about the pioneering projects.
RESPECT NATURE
Help us to look after the beautiful landscape and wildlife of our county by not littering, guarding against fire and using footpaths and cycle-ways responsibly. Ensure you follow the Countryside Code.
You can take a look at Blueriver Cottages’ collection of holiday homes in South Devon and Torbay by clicking here.
Seven Best Historical Sites To Explore In Totnes
There’s a wealth of history and heritage to discover as you wander through the streets of Totnes. Here’s our top pick of what to see.
Totnes Castle
The classic Norman motte and bailey Totnes Castle is managed by English Heritage. Climb to the top of the keep for stunning views over the town of Totnes and across to the River Dart. You can enjoy a picnic in the peaceful grounds under the shelter of age-old trees. There is plenty of space for families to relax on a summer day.
Thought to have been built by Juhel, a commander in William the Conqueror’s army, originally the castle was an earthwork and timber construction. In the early 13th century, the shell keep was built to crown the mound and was later rebuilt and this is what you can see today. Circular in shape, it is one of the best preserved of the three such keeps in Devon. You can still see the defensive arrow slits and battlements if you look closely.
Just a 1-minute walk from the high street, the castle is an ideal addition to any day out in Totnes. If castles are your thing, don't miss Dartmouth and Berry Pomeroy Castles. These are both also managed by English Heritage and are just a short drive away.
For opening times and prices, go to: www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/totnes-castle/
The Guildhall
The Guildhall offers another fascinating insight into the history of the town. It was built in 1553 on the ruins of the medieval priory, founded in 1088. The Guildhall has been the heart of the town’s administrative, legal and ceremonial life for centuries, serving as court, prison and meeting place. You can still see the original cells where, until 1887, prisoners awaited trial and punishment. Step inside to climb the 17th century stairs to the elegant Council Chamber, with its plaster frieze. The Chamber is also home to a table where Oliver Cromwell is said to have sat in 1646.
Free (donations welcome). Open Monday to Friday 11am-3pm April-October (excluding Bank Holidays). The Guildhall is still used for Town Council meetings and other events so check first before visiting.
For more information, go to www.totnestowncouncil.gov.uk/our-services/guildhall/
Totnes Museum
Totnes Museum in Upper Fore Street is housed in a beautifully restored Elizabethan merchant’s house and is free to visit (seasonal opening hours, donations welcome). The museum houses a wide range of treasures and includes a room a room dedicated to Charles Babbage ‘father of the computer’ who once lived in the town. Hidden away behind the museum is a lovely garden. Reminiscent of herb gardens of the Elizabethan period, this is a wonderful space to take a step away from the bustle of the busy town and smell the roses. For more information, go to www.totnesmuseum.org/
*Please note, Totnes Museum is currently closed. Please check their website for the latest opening times.
Kathy Alexander Tour Guide – Totnes Town Tour
Spend a morning exploring historic Totnes on an informal, friendly stroll around town with experienced tour guide, Kathy Alexander. Join Kathy on a walk to discover more about the key historic sites in Totnes, including the Castle, The Eastgate Arch, The Guildhall and the Market Square. Tours run on Thursdays from April through October starting at 10.30am in the Market Square. £8 per person, £4 under 16’s. Private group tours are available any time of year by arrangement. For more information, email [email protected] or call 07733197740
Steam along the track with South Devon Railway
Step back in time with a journey on popular heritage line South Devon Railway (SDR). The beautiful 7-mile journey to Totnes runs alongside the River Dart and takes half an hour. The station is a 15-minute walk from the centre of Totnes or it is possible to catch a Bob the Bus (low floor accessible bus) from various stops in the town to the mainline station (a 450m walk away from the SDR Totnes Riverside station).
Go to https://www.southdevonrailway.co.uk/ for more information on trains, timetables, and special events or to book a drive a steam train experience.
The Brutus Stone
The Brutus Stone features in legend as the place where Brutus the Trojan, founder of the British people, first stepped ashore. Brutus is said to have declared “Here I stand and here I rest, and this good town shall be called Totnes” (although there is no proof this ever happened.) When Fore Street was widened in 1810, the stone was reduced in height from 18 inches above ground to the level of the pavement. Whether or not Brutus stood on the stone, it’s a town custom that royal proclamations should be read there by the mayor. You can see the stone in the pavement on their right-hand side when walking up Fore Street next to number 51.
St Mary's Church
This historic building, open daily from 8.45 am to 5.00 pm, is well worth the visit. Built in the 15th century by townspeople on a site where Christians have worshipped for over a thousand years. Of particular interest to visitors are: the magnificent 15th-century sandstone rood screen; the Kempe stained glass window; the Willis organ built in 1861; the restored oak waggon roof; the fine brass candelabrum in the nave; the Blackhall monument and the memorial plaque to Walter Venning (1781-1821), Russian prison reformer.
In 2019, Totnes Heritage Trust commissioned an enormous map of Totnes which is now on the floor of St Mary’s Church. Drawn by local artist Anna Ventura, it is more than just a representation of the physical town. The map is also a snapshot of Totnes, with stories and characters that local residents will recognise.
The church is also used for music events throughout the year.
Find out more about Totnes and the surrounding area:
The Dart and Totnes – Bridges and Bridgetown
Creating memories that last a lifetime
For a fun and memorable experience that you can take away with you, China Blue’s Ceramic Studio has been designed with you in mind. The largest of its kind in the South West, Paint Your Own offers a fantastic range of pottery for the whole family to decorate. Simply pop in, choose your ceramic, and get painting!
The wide range of activities that we offer include:
• Pottery painting – Simply pop in, choose your ceramic and get painting! We will then glaze your masterpiece ready for collection in person or to be sent straight to your address.
• Paint & Go – Don’t want to wait to have your finished piece? Decorate your chosen ceramic with poster paints and you can take it away with you the very same day! (Please note: these ceramics arenot food safe or waterproof).
• Hand and foot casts – Looking for a special memento of your little one? We can help you create a unique hand or foot cast to treasure forever.
• Pot throwing – If you like the idea of making something from scratch, our friendly and helpful staff offer pot throwing sessions, which are also available as a gift voucher.
• Parties and events – we can accommodate birthday parties, hen/stag do’s, school visits, creative workshops and team building events with a private studio and WiFi.
To find out more or to book an event, call us on 01803 860908 or email [email protected]
The fun doesn’t end once you’ve finished your masterpiece. Browse China Blue’s lifestyle store for a great selection of fun and contemporary gifts from exclusive brands, including:
• Tableware and decorations
• Lights and lamps
• Vases and glassware
• Soft furnishing
• Beauty and toiletries
• Food and drink
All that creativity and shopping can be tiring, so why not take a break in China Blue’s tempting café? Delicious savouries and sweets are freshly made daily, perfect with a cup of tea or freshly brewed bespoke coffee. Relax indoors or outside in our lavish patio area, perfect for those warm summer days.
Just some of the treats available include:
• Cooked breakfasts
• Brunches
• Croissants, cakes and cream teas
• Jacket potatoes
• Ciabattas and sandwiches
• Soups and salads
• Pastries, quiches and pies
We also have a wide range of vegetarian and vegan options available.
For more information, call us on 01803 860906 or email [email protected]
Five Brilliant Bookshops You’ll Love In Totnes
We celebrate Independent Bookshop Week (17-24 June 2023) with our guide to Totnes’ FIVE brilliant independent bookshops. From the thrill of brand new, never-opened pages to that familiar scent of a pre-loved classic, come to browse the shelves. You'll find your next literary love with our pick of bookshops in Totnes Devon.
The East Gate Bookshop
Wander up Fore Street towards the iconic East Gate Arch to find the award-winning East Gate Bookshop. The husband-and-wife team behind this fully independent literary emporium have over thirty years’ experience in the book trade between them. Catering to all readers, you can find everything from best sellers (including signed copies) to books by local authors. There’s a strong focus on books regarding the natural world. From nature writing to identification guides and books concerning environmental issues.
Owner Nigel adds: “Recently we have expanded our children’s range and expanded our fiction section by moving it upstairs into our lovely mezzanine. We aim to create an inviting space, where people feel welcome and comfortable spending quality time browsing our comprehensive range of books.”
- Winners of the Muddy Stilettos Best Bookshop in Devon 2023 and Best Bookshop in Devon 2022
- Regional Finalist for the British Book Awards, Best Independent Bookshop, Southwest region 2023 and 2022
- East Gate Bookshop runs Wild Book Talks in association with The Bull Inn and The Albatross in Totnes
- Founders of the Restoring Nature Festival at Lower Sharpham Farm, now planning for its third year in 2024.
Dartington Trust Books
On the corner of the Market Square, you’ll find Dartington Trust Books with its fabulous choice of books for all ages as well as other beautifully curated gifts.
You’ll find a strong emphasis on the arts, ecology and social justice within the pages on the shelves. Manager Graeme Estry explains: “We aim to reflect and articulate the ethos of the Trust, which is a progressive and practical synthesis of arts, ecology, social justice and learning. In line with the history of Dartington, we champion committed, independent and experimental thought, with a focus ranging from the local to the international.”
Arcturus Books
Arcturus Books has been a consistent and inspiring presence in Totnes for over 30 years. Nicknamed ‘Self-Help Central’, Arcturus Books aims to be ‘deliberately different’, specialising in books that support the soul. Owner Meg Sims explains: “Although we do stock the bestsellers, we aim to cater for the reader who is looking for something that little bit different. At Arcturus, you will find an ever-changing collection of books on all genres. From psychology to self-development, spirituality to health and nutrition, the environment to history and many more in between. We also hold an extensive range of books on Wicca, Pagan and Magic, as well as a stock of sage and incense. Beyond books, we also offer a unique selection of tarot and oracle cards. These vary from beginner’s sets to those seeking more variety and inspiration for your readings.”
Run by Meg and Will, you’ll find Arcturus at the junction between Fore Street and Station Road.
Castle Bookshop
Take a step away from the High Street to find the delightful Castle Books. Located on Castle Street in the shadow of Totnes’ fabulous Norman motte and bailey castle, this gem of a second-hand bookshop is the place to head if you love old books. Inside, you will find a wonderful selection of everything from children’s books and classics to rare and out-of-print books. Volunteer Gill added: "Castle Books is a community bookshop. Run by volunteers with a love of all things literary, the shop sells (and buys) pre-loved books. The window is always a delight and highly topical, and the shop itself is full of surprises. Don’t miss it!"
Oxfam Books
Finally, in your hunt for the best bookshops in Totnes Devon, don't miss Oxfam Books and Music. You'll find this dedicated store located on The Narrows, towards the top end of the town. The books on offer range from current-day Top 10 bestsellers to the rare and antiquarian. You never quite know what you’ll find! What you can be sure of is that you’ll get a great deal, make a sustainable choice, and help support charity in one go with every purchase.
Melinda from Oxfam Bookshop added: "The Oxfam Book Shop is a treasure trove for books on almost any topic. Opened in 2005, the shop is supplied with donations from the local community, and supported by a team of book loving volunteers. It's a great place to pick up a good novel, or search for something unusual or antiquarian. Most popular with customers are the Literature, Arts and Mind, Body Spirit sections, but we stock everything from plays to politics, cooking to crafts and much much more."
Find out more
To find out more about getting to Totnes and other nearby places to visit and where to eat, go to www.visittotnes.co.uk
Local Heroes of Totnes
Enjoying Dartmoor without a car
Car(e) free Dartmoor
Visitors to south Devon, particularly those from Europe, are frequently taken aback at the lack of public transport into and around the beautiful Dartmoor National Park. Even if you’re staying in one of the so-called “gateway” towns like Ashburton or Bovey Tracey, it’s not possible to get up to the moor without hiring a taxi or walking for miles on roads before you get to proper moorland scenery. But there are ways for visitors to Totnes to enjoy Dartmoor without a car. Here’s a few of them:
From Totnes you can get the excellent Stagecoach Gold bus to Ivybridge or South Brent (runs every half hour and even hourly on a Sunday). From both of these towns the walks onto the moor are on footpaths -- and if you’re a confident walker able to read a map and compass you can walk from one to the other via some fabulous Dartmoor scenery.
Ivybridge lies on the lovely river Erme and you can follow the river upstream from the town centre through beautiful woodland, then cut across to the picturesque hamlet of Harford and onto the open moor at Harford Moor Gate. The energetic can walk from here all the way to Piles Copse, one of the three areas of ancient woodland on Dartmoor and an idyllic spot for a picnic. The Two Moors Way runs along the ridge above, and you can follow it back into town passing prehistoric stone rows and with magnificent moorland views.
In South Brent you can follow footpaths up the equally lovely river Avon valley, via Lutton and Didworthy, then walk up the bridlepath to Corringdon Ball and the Glazebrook valley where there are many prehistoric remains and great high moor scenery. Return on footpaths via Aishridge and Aish.
On Saturdays between May and September, you can take advantage of the Haytor Hoppa which drives across the moor taking in sights such as Hay Tor, Widecombe and Hound Tor. Take the train to Newton Abbot and pick the bus up there. You can hop off at one place and hop on again at another, thus enjoying a linear walk or two, and eventually returning to Newton Abbot train station. There are four buses and day and the timetable can be found here.
If you’re used to camping and carrying your own equipment, you can take advantage of the fact that Dartmoor is the only national park in the country that allows wild camping. Take a small tent and pitch it at least 100m from a road or house and the moor is your oyster (with the exception of a few areas – see link below). You can walk from Ivybridge to Okehampton or follow the Two Moors Way from Ivybridge on a more easterly route, finishing somewhere like Chagford. It goes without saying that you need a compass, a map and the ability to navigate before you venture out onto these high moorland routes! Information on wild camping can be found here. Buses can take you from Okehampton or Chagford back to Exeter and from there by train back to Totnes.
If you’re not comfortable with negotiating your own route or you’d like the benefit of a guide who can introduce you to the hidden delights and history of Dartmoor, contact Dartmoor Walks and Rides This Way. Based in Ashburton, which is served by the regular 88 bus from Totnes, I can meet you at the bus stop and take you for a half-day or full-day exploration of the moor either on foot or on an electric bike. But I’m afraid the 88 bus doesn’t run on Sundays…..
Discover the Dart
The River Dart is a stunning waterway winding for 47 miles from the heart of Dartmoor to its magnificent estuary in Dartmouth. This gem of South Devon offers a choice of natural beauty, historic landmarks, and the chance to have fun, making it the ideal destination for a couple of days or more. Set halfway between moor and sea, you'll find the thriving town of Totnes. Whether you want to enjoy River Dart walks, get out on the water, enjoy the best local food, or discover how the river has given Totnes a rich history, read on to find out more about Totnes, nearby Dartmouth, and to truly Discover the Dart.
River Dart walks in Totnes
Amble by riverside meadows and salt marshes to enjoy beautiful views of wildlife and the countryside as you discover the Dart. The paths to Dartington and at Longmarsh are accessible for all. You'll have a choice of cafes back in Totnes to treat yourself to coffee and cake afterwards!
Find maps and directions for a choice of walks along the River Dart in Totnes here.
Discover Dartmouth
Quaint Dartmouth is situated on the banks of the picturesque River Dart. It’s the perfect year round destination for a day visit. You can easily get to Dartmouth from Totnes by the Stagecoach number 92 bus, which runs regularly and takes around 30 minutes. Check timetables here.
Alternatively, enjoy the 45-minute boat trip along the beautiful River Dart when you catch the River Boat that leaves from Steamer Quay, Totnes. Boat times vary depending on the tides, so check and book first. Along the way you may be lucky to spot wildlife and will get a wonderful view of Agatha Christie's Greenway House and the Royal Britannia Naval College from the water. It’s also possible to buy a ‘Round Robin’ ticket for a circular trip by boat, train and bus.
With numerous festivals and events taking place in Dartmouth throughout the year and a rich maritime heritage, there is always something happening in this vibrant harbour town. Find out more about Dartmouth.
Paddleboard or kayak on the River Dart
Do you want to paddleboard or kayak on the River Dart in Totnes? With fabulous wildlife to spot and stunning views, getting out on the water is a truly memorable experience.
Discover the Dart: Totnes to Stoke Gabriel Paddle Trail
The River Dart in Totnes is a beautiful spot to paddleboard or kayak. However, because of the tidal pull, exploring the River Dart below the weir in Totnes does require a little pre-planning.
For advice on where to launch and how to enjoy the river safely, take a look at Dart Harbour Authority’s Paddle Trail from Totnes to Stoke Gabriel.
One of the best places to launch is at Longmarsh, Totnes. There’s a car park here and an easy to access slipway. Find Longmarsh car park at the bottom left corner of the town map.
Bring your own SUP or kayak or hire one from Totnes Kayaks or Paddle Devon. Canoe Adventures also runs adventure canoe trips (often incorporating a paddle to a pub). These are suitable for everyone, including family groups.
If you’re looking for a coastal kayak adventure, get out on the water with Sea Kayak Devon. Join them to explore rocky coves and hidden spots along South Devon’s stunning shoreline where the River Dart meets the sea.
Historic Totnes
Meander along the streets to admire the town’s historic buildings in the shadow of the town’s majestic Norman motte and bailey castle. At the free to visit Totnes Guildhall you can see the original cells where, until 1887, prisoners awaited trial and punishment. Totnes Museum is a treasure trove that’s not to be missed. The medieval Dartington Hall and Gardens is a pleasant walk from the town centre.
Food, drink, and shopping in Totnes
If you like to shop, you’ll love the treasures on offer in the independent stores lining Totnes’ thriving high street. There’s a strong emphasis on local and handmade goods, with everything from fashion to fudge ready to tempt you. On Fridays and Saturdays throughout the year, the market square buzzes with over 50 stalls. These sell an eclectic mix of vintage collectibles, food, and crafts.
As you'd expect, Totnes' cafes and restaurants, including the award-winning, organic, The Bull Inn , make full use of fresh, local, seasonally available food.
Discover wellness and mindfulness beside the River Dart
The Sharpham Trust is an internationally-renowned centre for mindfulness. It sits on the edge of Totnes overlooking the River Dart. There are several retreat venues on the Estate, where participants stay and learn mindful meditation techniques amid breathtaking natural scenery. The whole Estate is certified organic, run using sustainable and organic practices. It is home to rich flora and fauna – including the endangered Cirl Bunting – and parts of the land are being rewilded.
Enjoy a train ride alongside the River Dart
Sit back and enjoy the river views as you let South Devon Railway transport you along their riverside route from Buckfastleigh to Totnes.
Stay in Totnes
Ready to start exploring? From luxury, organic stays and cosy B+Bs to family-friendly self-catering options, check out where to stay in Totnes.